Saudi Arabia
March, 2023
Edge of the World, Riyadh
Saudi Arabia remains an enigma to many, shrouded in mystery. Yet, upon my arrival, Riyadh felt strangely familiar, echoing the juxtaposition of old and new that defines my memories of Beijing.
On one hand, there is the beautiful old palace with adobe walls placed close to each other for shading the space in-between. On the other, Riyadh is adorned with skyscrapers, expansive highways, and a ceaseless expanse of low-density housing developments. The pace of change is rapid as the nation opens its doors to the world, mirroring the dilemma I witnessed growing up in China — a struggle to preserve great traditions while embracing the influence of the West.
On one hand, there is the beautiful old palace with adobe walls placed close to each other for shading the space in-between. On the other, Riyadh is adorned with skyscrapers, expansive highways, and a ceaseless expanse of low-density housing developments. The pace of change is rapid as the nation opens its doors to the world, mirroring the dilemma I witnessed growing up in China — a struggle to preserve great traditions while embracing the influence of the West.
Urban planning in Riyadh took a decisive leap in the 1980s, embracing a Western-style highway system. Fueled by abundant oil and the relentless heat that dominates half the year, cars became the preferred mode of transport. It's intriguing to observe how cities adapt to extreme weather conditions; Riyadh builds highways, while Minneapolis connects downtown buildings with skyways.
Wide highways, Riyadh
Yet, amidst the evolving landscape, some habits remain slow to change. Rooted in a nomadic past, the act of sitting on the ground endures. Traditional Saudi meals are laid out on carpets, families gather on the ground at parks, maintaining a certain distance for privacy. Even past midnight, parks are filled with people, presenting a unique response to battling the heat: utilizing outdoor spaces at night. The contrast between day and night in public spaces is striking.
Riyadh's color palette is dominated by muted earth tones. A spectrum of beige shades prevails, a consequence of frequent sandstorms that envelop the city and the intense UV that wears away paint colors. Despite the monochromatic exterior, a vibrant love for color manifests in interior spaces. Doors, trims, shelves, furniture, and carpets burst forth with bright colors and intricate patterns, offering a glimpse into the lively spirit that defies the city's outward appearance.
